i went to indonesia. yet no photos to prove
i went with a girl but she turned out to suck ( not that kind)
bali is incredible. scooters. reef waves. uluwatu. padang padang
sheesh it's all so overwhelming.
Canguu to keramas. canguu is a fun sandy reef setup, similar to a perfect cardiff. probably as many kooks, maybe more.....yet no one smiles in the line-up...?
keramas has a heavy vibe, the wave was so so while i was there but the shallow water, suspect volcanic reef and crowd made it less than desirable. caught a few rights, but considered myself lucky to escape without having to scrub it kook. not shortly after i read about bali's communist years, when thousands of balinese on the east side of the island (keramas) were massacered for political belief. Bodies thrown into rivers, streams and even creating human islands floating off the shore..... maybe thats why i wasnt having it. Beautiful ride paddies though
running around on scooters was the most empowering part aside from 8 foot uluwatu. i used to think i was cool for being able to ride my bike through sf...ha.....ha....give denpasar a go around rush hour or during a monsoon rain and then stroke yourself...
after keramas was kuta/uluwatu/sanur
this whole part was highlighted by surfing...holy holy holy
uluwatu is a zoo...(zooluwatu/ schooluwatu/ newluwatu/ too many names to list
walking through the caves....it's all surreal. even all the noise on the cliff. (warungs. surf rentals. kitchy tourist shops)
and fuck....everyone surfs these days....from russia to fucking ohio.
i stopped wanting to seem like i was there for surfing. if you're wondering I brought along a 7'4 fineline.....holyholy
so after seeing the madness at the main point i decided to paddle alllllll the way up the point to a wave that looked insane, but had no takers....lucky me
turned out to be the best wave of the trip. perfect left point with tricky tube sections. best part was I WAS ALONE!!!!!!!
side note: i took light amounts of lsd each morning :)
shredding alone at a perfect wave with what felt like my most capable tripped out self....thats why i came here.
i surfed for three hours by myself laughing my head off.,,thanking mother nature, and myself and brian hilbers and gerry lopez and my family...fuck it was a gratuitous moment....
from this moment i learned i am okay. the world is home, and if you wear a smile, you might be lucky enough to spread some aloha.
i returned to this wave 3 more times, each time with a few more people, apparently it's called "lurches" but shhhhhh keep uluwatu crowded!!
i also surfed padang and impossibles....holy ahhhhh. point breaks and hulls and shallow water....oh my it was good...one of the best parts was that i didn't have a date with the reef...maybe i wasnt crucial enough....but i saw more than enough 'shred dawgs' who were going to have to make love to some lime.
the trash situation in bali is awful. heart breaking. the locals don't give a shit either, saw one to many balinese throw out cigarettes, bottles. fuck anything.
im still jetlagged. my return flight home is a whole other story, but heres a teaser/ hint
when you lose consciousness at the ticketing counter, theres a good chance they'll bump you up to first class.
part two coming never....
i went with a girl but she turned out to suck ( not that kind)
bali is incredible. scooters. reef waves. uluwatu. padang padang
sheesh it's all so overwhelming.
Canguu to keramas. canguu is a fun sandy reef setup, similar to a perfect cardiff. probably as many kooks, maybe more.....yet no one smiles in the line-up...?
keramas has a heavy vibe, the wave was so so while i was there but the shallow water, suspect volcanic reef and crowd made it less than desirable. caught a few rights, but considered myself lucky to escape without having to scrub it kook. not shortly after i read about bali's communist years, when thousands of balinese on the east side of the island (keramas) were massacered for political belief. Bodies thrown into rivers, streams and even creating human islands floating off the shore..... maybe thats why i wasnt having it. Beautiful ride paddies though
running around on scooters was the most empowering part aside from 8 foot uluwatu. i used to think i was cool for being able to ride my bike through sf...ha.....ha....give denpasar a go around rush hour or during a monsoon rain and then stroke yourself...
after keramas was kuta/uluwatu/sanur
this whole part was highlighted by surfing...holy holy holy
uluwatu is a zoo...(zooluwatu/ schooluwatu/ newluwatu/ too many names to list
walking through the caves....it's all surreal. even all the noise on the cliff. (warungs. surf rentals. kitchy tourist shops)
and fuck....everyone surfs these days....from russia to fucking ohio.
i stopped wanting to seem like i was there for surfing. if you're wondering I brought along a 7'4 fineline.....holyholy
so after seeing the madness at the main point i decided to paddle alllllll the way up the point to a wave that looked insane, but had no takers....lucky me
turned out to be the best wave of the trip. perfect left point with tricky tube sections. best part was I WAS ALONE!!!!!!!
side note: i took light amounts of lsd each morning :)
shredding alone at a perfect wave with what felt like my most capable tripped out self....thats why i came here.
i surfed for three hours by myself laughing my head off.,,thanking mother nature, and myself and brian hilbers and gerry lopez and my family...fuck it was a gratuitous moment....
from this moment i learned i am okay. the world is home, and if you wear a smile, you might be lucky enough to spread some aloha.
i returned to this wave 3 more times, each time with a few more people, apparently it's called "lurches" but shhhhhh keep uluwatu crowded!!
i also surfed padang and impossibles....holy ahhhhh. point breaks and hulls and shallow water....oh my it was good...one of the best parts was that i didn't have a date with the reef...maybe i wasnt crucial enough....but i saw more than enough 'shred dawgs' who were going to have to make love to some lime.
the trash situation in bali is awful. heart breaking. the locals don't give a shit either, saw one to many balinese throw out cigarettes, bottles. fuck anything.
im still jetlagged. my return flight home is a whole other story, but heres a teaser/ hint
when you lose consciousness at the ticketing counter, theres a good chance they'll bump you up to first class.
part two coming never....
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